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Sep 11, 2018

Красивая пара: Два бренда украшений

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Минимализм, лаконичность, акцент на металл

Таковы составляющие стилистической базы коллекций молодых, порой малоизвестных, современных ювелирных домов. Дизайнеров интересует главным образом взаимодействие формы и фактуры, которое делает возможным подчеркнуть движение линии, игру света, контраст объемных элементов и рельефных поверхностей. Шаг в сторону от использования множества драгоценных, цветных камней в пользу вариаций и экспериментов с металлом - основная идея ювелирных коллекций Leigh Miller и Alighieri.  

Leigh Miller: Окружающая среда, как источник вдохновения

Обтекаемые формы, например, морских камней (серия украшений «Pebble»), мотивы, открывающиеся в природе, стилизуются автором и воплощаются в объемных изделиях. Дополнением служит орнамент (линии, точки), отсылающий к первобытному искусству. Асимметрия символизирует неповторимость форм в природе в комбинации с примитивным, стилизованным декором образуют современные, минималистичные и лаконичные украшения. 

Leigh Miller «лепит» металлическую модель, подчиняя материал сглаженным, округлым формам. Ювелир прорабатывает рельефные или гравированные фрагменты и сочетает их с плоской или объемной поверхностью. 


Линия, как центральный элемент, подчеркивающий форму и очерчивающий композицию. 


Благодаря криволинейным, неровным мотивам разной толщины и непрерывности линии, дополнительным источником, вступающим в «игру», становится свет. При его попадании на металлическую поверхность, происходит движение и вибрация фактур ювелирной работы.


Абстрактные вариации своих украшений Leigh Miller определяет, как маленькие скульптуры: главным составляющим служит пластичность элементов, соединенных в единое целое. 

В основе создания украшений лежит технология потери восковой модели, на которой основывались первые коллекции бренда 2014 года. Сегодня дизайнер моделирует изделия за счет плавления органического воска, затем получившуюся форму выполняет в серебре. Для коллекций ювелир применяет золото, серебро, платину, в редких случаях дополняя основные материалы цветными камнями (серьги «Dali dangles»).  

🌊 It's all in the details

Alighieri: Иное видение минимализма в ювелирном деле

Вдохновением для Rosh Mahtani - основательницы компании, послужила «Божественная комедия» Данте Алигьери, переосмысление которой определило центральную стилистическую концепцию Alighieri. Отдельного внимания заслуживает тот факт, что почти каждое украшение, представленное на официальном сайте бренда, сопровождается пояснительной запиской для понимания задумки автора, заложенной в той или иной ювелирной работе.

Мотивы знаков зодиаков или профиль Данте стилизованно представлены в таких коллекциях, как «Zodiac Stories», «The Floating Questions Collection». Круглая форма изделий, смоделированная не полной, отсылает к античным медальонам.     

Взяв за основу желтое золото, дизайнер акцентирует внимание на форме и фактуре работ, вдохновляясь античными образцами. Сложные формы, навевающие мысли о находках в археологических экспедициях, потерявших со временем некоторые элементы целого произведения, придают шарм каждому изделию. Воспроизведение «осколков» античной керамики, фрагментов монет – узнаваемый мотив бренда. 

Оригинальная фактура, «грубая, вылепленная» декорировка поверхности, асимметрия в основе композиции ориентируют на самобытность изделий. Определенные формы столь «разбиты», что создается ощущение принадлежности их к затерявшемуся артефакту. В изделиях Rosh Mahtani присутствует некая незавершенность, за счет техники и выбранных форм, но каждая работа – это целостное, выразительное и современное изделие.

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Alighieri

Alighieri - Starless Sky Gold-plated Earrings - one size

Alighieri | Alighieri - Starless Sky Gold-plated Earrings - one size | Clouty

Alighieri's jewelry tells a visual story of the 'whirlwind adventures' encountered by characters in Dante's Divine Comedy. These gold-plated hoop earrings have been handcrafted in the brand's London studio using a lost wax casting technique - metal is poured into a mold to create a unique, molten finish.

Alighieri

Alighieri Gold The Jokers Game Earrings

Alighieri | Alighieri Gold The Jokers Game Earrings | Clouty

Pair of hoop earrings in 24k gold-plated bronze. Post-stud fastening. Approx. 1 diameter.

Leigh Miller

Leigh Miller - Totem Gold-tone And Silver Earrings - one size

Leigh Miller | Leigh Miller - Totem Gold-tone And Silver Earrings - one size | Clouty

Leigh Miller Newman uses the ancient tradition of lost wax casting to sculpt her designs before hand-hammering each piece for a unique finish. These 'Totem' earrings are cast from gold-tone brass in misshapen semi-circles, and topped with contrasting silver discs. The ridges are inspired by water ripples. - Butterfly fastening for pierced ears

Alighieri

Alighieri SSENSE Exclusive Silver The Lost Dreamer Necklace

Alighieri | Alighieri SSENSE Exclusive Silver The Lost Dreamer Necklace | Clouty

Chain-link necklace in silver-tone bronze. Sculpted pendant. Spring-ring fastening. Approx. 16 drop. Available exclusively at SSENSE.

Leigh Miller

Leigh Miller - Ostra Silver Earrings - One size

Leigh Miller | Leigh Miller - Ostra Silver Earrings - One size | Clouty

Leigh Miller Newman told us these 'Ostra' earrings are one of her favorites from our edit - "while they are unusual, I find them a simple yet special everyday piece." Using the ancient lost-wax casting technique, this silver pair is hammered by hand to create a ripple effect.

Leigh Miller

Leigh Miller - Hepworth Drop White Bronze, Gold-tone And Silver Earrings - One size

Leigh Miller | Leigh Miller - Hepworth Drop White Bronze, Gold-tone And Silver Earrings - One size | Clouty

Leigh Miller's drop earrings are inspired by the clean, organic lines of Dame Barbara Hepworth's sculptures. Suspended from dainty silver wire, they're tipped with two hollowed charms cast in white bronze and gold-tone brass for a two-tone effect. Each one is hammered by hand for a unique shape and finish.

Alighieri

Alighieri Gold Il Leone Earrings

Alighieri | Alighieri Gold Il Leone Earrings | Clouty

Pair of mismatched hoop earrings in 24k yellow gold-plated bronze. Post stud fastening. Approx. 2.25 diameter. Approx. 0.75 diameter.

Alighieri

Alighieri - Cancer Gold Plated Necklace - Womens -

Alighieri | Alighieri - Cancer Gold Plated Necklace - Womens - | Clouty

Alighieri - Alighieri designer Rosh Mahtani says her Zodiac collection - available exclusively at MATCHESFASHION.COM - is designed to 'bring you luck and courage on all your adventures.' This 24kt gold-plated bronze fine chain necklace is strung with a distressed pendant that's embossed with Cancer's crab sign. Wear it day and night as a characterful talisman.

Leigh Miller

Leigh Miller - Alaria Gold-tone Hairclip - one size

Leigh Miller | Leigh Miller - Alaria Gold-tone Hairclip - one size | Clouty

The barrette is the hair accessory du jour, and this gold-tone one from LA-based jeweler Leigh Miller is our new favorite discovery. Inspired by natural patterns and forms, it has an organic shape and grooves that remind us of an oyster shell.

Alighieri

Alighieri Gold The Persisting Nightmare Earrings

Alighieri | Alighieri Gold The Persisting Nightmare Earrings | Clouty

Pair of sculpted earrings in 24k yellow gold-plated bronze. Post-stud fastening. Approx. 2 drop.

Alighieri

Alighieri - The Remedy Chapter I Gold-plated Pearl Necklace - one size

Alighieri | Alighieri - The Remedy Chapter I Gold-plated Pearl Necklace - one size | Clouty

Alighieri's necklace is strung with an exquisite freshwater pearl and is part of 'The Remedy' series - Chapter ii and iii layer beautifully with it. The gold-plated bronze coil is made using the ancient artisanal technique of lost-wax casting.

Leigh Miller

Leigh Miller - Wakame Silver Hoop Earrings - one size

Leigh Miller | Leigh Miller - Wakame Silver Hoop Earrings - one size | Clouty

Leigh Miller Newman often posts exhibitions she loves on her brand's Instagram stories, so it's no surprise her jewelry designs resemble miniature sculptures. Part of her new collection for Spring '18, these 'Wakame' hoops are made by hand from polished silver.

Leigh Miller

Leigh Miller - Double Whirlpool White Bronze Earrings - Silver

Leigh Miller | Leigh Miller - Double Whirlpool White Bronze Earrings - Silver | Clouty

Leigh Miller's earrings are inspired by the patterns of ocean whirlpools and carefully hand-hammered to recreate the ripples of water. They're made using the ancient lost wax technique then cast in white bronze that feels comfortably lightweight. The silver butterfly fastening is ideal for those with sensitive ears. - Butterfly fastening for pierced ears

Alighieri - The Dance Of The Storm Gold Plated Bangle - Womens - Gold

Alighieri - The Dance Of The Storm Gold Plated Bangle - Womens - Gold | Clouty

Alighieri - Rosh Mahtani's jewellery line Alighieri is named after Italian poet Dante Alighieri and takes inspiration from his work. Such romantic underpinnings are apparent in her The Dance of the Storm bangle which is crafted in the UK from 24kt yellow-gold plated bronze to a slim band with a large hammered disk at the centre. Slip it on with a cotton dress to add polish to a daytime ensemble.

Alighieri

Alighieri Gold The Infernal Storm Pearl Earrrings

Alighieri | Alighieri Gold The Infernal Storm Pearl Earrrings | Clouty

Pair of mismatched sculpted earrings in 24k yellow gold-plated bronze. Baroque pearls at drop. Post-stud fastening. Approx. 2 drop.

Leigh Miller

Leigh Miller - Swish Silver Earrings - one size

Leigh Miller | Leigh Miller - Swish Silver Earrings - one size | Clouty

Leigh Miller Newman describes her brand's designs as being "at the crossroads between art and jewelry." Part of her new collection for Spring '18, these interlinked 'Swish' earrings are handmade from polished silver and feature pressed water ripples. Wear them with your hair swept back and a bold lip.

Alighieri

Alighieri - Passione Di Napoli 24kt Gold Plated Earrings - Womens - Gold

Alighieri | Alighieri - Passione Di Napoli 24kt Gold Plated Earrings - Womens - Gold | Clouty

Alighieri - Inspired by the magical and dangerous atmosphere of Naples as described in Dante's poems, Alighieri's Passione de Napoli earrings are a whimsical yet elegant pair. This mismatching set is crafted in London from distressed 24kt gold-plated bronze with one coin stud and the other a triangle, both accented with a cream pearl drop. Wear them to late-summer al fresco events with your hair tied up.

Alighieri

Alighieri - Dante And The World Gold-plated Necklace - one size

Alighieri | Alighieri - Dante And The World Gold-plated Necklace - one size | Clouty

EXCLUSIVE AT NET-A-PORTER.COM. Alighieri's 'Dante and The World' necklace is inspired by designer Rosh Mahtani's studies of Dante's Divine Comedy. Made from polished gold-plated bronze, this piece is strung together from paperclip-style chains and detailed with a coin and spherical pendant. Adjust the length and make it the centerpiece of a backless blouse.

Alighieri

Alighieri - The Joker's Game Gold-plated Hoop Earrings - one size

Alighieri | Alighieri - The Joker's Game Gold-plated Hoop Earrings - one size | Clouty

Alighieri's 'Joker's Game' hoop earrings are handmade using the ancient practice of lost-wax casting - look closely and you can see each ripple and imperfection retained from being sculpted in wax before casting in gold-plated bronze. They're finished with butterfly backs to highlight the open shape.

Leigh Miller

Leigh Miller - Ebb And Flow Silver Earrings - One size

Leigh Miller | Leigh Miller - Ebb And Flow Silver Earrings - One size | Clouty

Leigh Miller Newman is inspired by natural formations, translating them into metal. Using an ancient wax casting technique, these silver 'Ebb And Flow' earrings are carefully molded then hand-hammered to recreate the effect of water ripples. We like them worn solo, or both in one ear.

Alighieri

Alighieri - The Fortune Charm Gold-plated Bracelet - one size

Alighieri | Alighieri - The Fortune Charm Gold-plated Bracelet - one size | Clouty

EXCLUSIVE AT NET-A-PORTER.COM. We love Alighieri's literary-inspired pieces so much, we asked Rosh Mahtani to create a capsule exclusively for us. Cast from gold-plated bronze, this bracelet has a sizable charm that's been handmade using a lost-wax casting technique for a truly unique shape. Think of styling as books - layer it "in chapters, or worn as individual stories".

Alighieri

Alighieri - Dante's Shadow Gold-plated Pearl Earrings - one size

Alighieri | Alighieri - Dante's Shadow Gold-plated Pearl Earrings - one size | Clouty

Alighieri's 'Dante's Shadow' earrings are to be worn as a reminder to "roll the dice and take your chances" - the style references the rebellious and unruly souls in the poem, Divine Comedy. Handmade in London from gold-plated bronze, they feature hammered hoops which are tipped with mismatched baroque pearls. Wear yours to uplift dark blouses and jackets.

Leigh Miller

Leigh Miller - On The Halfshell Gold-tone Earrings - One size

Leigh Miller | Leigh Miller - On The Halfshell Gold-tone Earrings - One size | Clouty

Leigh Miller Newman uses the ancient tradition of lost wax casting to create her pieces, then hand-hammers them into organic forms inspired by nature. These earrings comprise three gold-tone brass discs with shell-like ridges that reflect the light beautifully. The sterling silver butterfly fastening is comfortable for those with sensitive ears.

Alighieri

Alighieri - Sagittarius Gold Plated Necklace - Womens -

Alighieri | Alighieri - Sagittarius Gold Plated Necklace - Womens - | Clouty

Alighieri - For SS18 Alighieri's coin pendants draw inspiration from the zodiac, creating pieces such as this yellow 24kt gold-plated bronze Sagittarius necklace. It's crafted in the UK with a lightly distressed pendant that drops from a fine curb chain. Wear it as part of your everyday collection to bring a playful tone to structured silhouettes.

Alighieri

Alighieri Gold The Odyssey Single Earring

Alighieri | Alighieri Gold The Odyssey Single Earring | Clouty

Single sculpted earring in 24k yellow gold-plated bronze. Post-stud fastening. Approx. 2 drop.

Leigh Miller

Leigh Miller - Anticlast Gold-tone Cuff - One size

Leigh Miller | Leigh Miller - Anticlast Gold-tone Cuff - One size | Clouty

Leigh Miller Newman believes jewelry is like mini sculpture and this cuff is hand-hammered for unique texture. It's made using the ancient tradition of lost wax casting, then carefully molded in gold-tone brass. We love it with these earrings from the line.

Alighieri

Alighieri - Goodnight Moon Gold-plated Pearl Earrings - one size

Alighieri | Alighieri - Goodnight Moon Gold-plated Pearl Earrings - one size | Clouty

EXCLUSIVE AT NET-A-PORTER.COM. Each Alighieri design is inspired by a different verse in Dante's Divine Comedy - these 'Goodnight Moon' earrings reference Canto III and the inconstant moon. The delicate oval pendants are plated in gold and strung with lustrous pearl drops. Show them off with your hair swept back.

Alighieri

Alighieri - The Remedy Chapter Ii Gold-plated Pearl Necklace - one size

Alighieri | Alighieri - The Remedy Chapter Ii Gold-plated Pearl Necklace - one size | Clouty

EXCLUSIVE AT NET-A-PORTER.COM. Alighieri's 'Chapter ii' necklace is adorned with a baroque freshwater pearl chosen for its beautifully unique shape and natural inclusions and the brand's signature 'Leone' medallion. It's handmade by molding an ancient Venetian coin in wax, before casting in gold-plated bronze. The embossed lion is meant to remind the wearer to be strong and courageous.

Alighieri

Alighieri Gold The Enigmatic Extrovert Earrings

Alighieri | Alighieri Gold The Enigmatic Extrovert Earrings | Clouty

Pair of earrings in 24k gold-plated bronze. Sterling silver disc and pearl at mismatched drop. Post-stud fastening. Approx. 1.5 drop.

Alighieri

Alighieri - Odyssey + Stolen Moment Gold-plated Earrings - one size

Alighieri | Alighieri - Odyssey + Stolen Moment Gold-plated Earrings - one size | Clouty

Alighieri's 'Odyssey + Stolen Moment' earrings are part of the label's 'Chasing Clouds' collection, inspired by the journeys of the characters in Dante's Divine Comedy. This pair is handcrafted from gold-plated bronze using a wax technique to create a unique, molten effect. They're slightly mismatched, so look just as striking worn individually as together.

Leigh Miller

Leigh Miller - Double Drop Gold-tone Earrings - one size

Leigh Miller | Leigh Miller - Double Drop Gold-tone Earrings - one size | Clouty

After stints at Calvin Klein and J.Crew, Leigh Newman Miller was drawn to the freedom of expression in metalwork and jewelry. To make her pieces she melts organic wax before casting nature-inspired shapes. These 'Double Drop' gold-tone earrings have a ripple design that mimics the surface of water.

Leigh Miller

Leigh Miller - Puddle Gold-plated Necklace - one size

Leigh Miller | Leigh Miller - Puddle Gold-plated Necklace - one size | Clouty

Leigh Miller Newman cut her teeth at J.Crew and Calvin Klein before launching her own jewelry line. Part of the new summer collection, this necklace is handmade from gold-plated brass and strung with a puddle-shaped pendant hammered to resemble ripples in the water. Wear it with plunging necklines or layered over T-shirts with shorter chains.

Leigh Miller

Leigh Miller - Padina Gold-tone Earrings - one size

Leigh Miller | Leigh Miller - Padina Gold-tone Earrings - one size | Clouty

Leigh Miller Newman is inspired by natural formations and it shows in her jewelry designs - she uses the ancient tradition of lost wax casting to create her pieces, then hand-hammers them into organic forms. These 'Padina' earrings are made from polished gold-tone brass with shell-like ridges that reflect the light beautifully. Show them off with tucked-back hair.

Leigh Miller

Leigh Miller - Bubble Gold-tone Hoop Earrings - one size

Leigh Miller | Leigh Miller - Bubble Gold-tone Hoop Earrings - one size | Clouty

Leigh Miller Newman describes her 'Bubble' earrings as "a forever kind of pair" - they're simple and a perfect mid-size so you can wear them day or night. Made from gold-tone brass, they have a vintage-inspired hoop silhouette which looks cool stacked with small studs.

Alighieri

Alighieri SSENSE Exclusive Silver Leone 2.0 Earrings

Alighieri | Alighieri SSENSE Exclusive Silver Leone 2.0 Earrings | Clouty

Pair of drop earrings in sterling silver. Post-stud fastening. Approx. 1.5 drop. Available exclusively at SSENSE.

Alighieri

Alighieri - Il Fuoco Gold Plated Mismatched Earrings - Womens -

Alighieri | Alighieri - Il Fuoco Gold Plated Mismatched Earrings - Womens - | Clouty

Alighieri - Alighieri's eclectic jewellery offering takes inspiration from scenes and encounters depicted in Dante's epic poem 'Divine Comedy', including these 24kt gold-plated bronze Il Fuoco earrings. They're made in the designer's London-based studio, comprised of contrasting distressed coin medallions that secure with a post-back fastening. Style them simply with fluid silk as part of a considered evening edit.

Alighieri

Alighieri - Leo Gold Plated Necklace - Womens -

Alighieri | Alighieri - Leo Gold Plated Necklace - Womens - | Clouty

Alighieri - Alighieri's SS18 collection draws inspiration from the zodiac and this 24kt yellow-gold plated brass necklace reflects the Leo star sign. Crafted in the UK, it's constructed with a fine curb chain that features an embossed pendant that is lightly distressed for a worn-in effect. Watch it lend charm to sculptural tailoring.

Alighieri

Alighieri - Baby Lion Gold-plated Earrings - one size

Alighieri | Alighieri - Baby Lion Gold-plated Earrings - one size | Clouty

Alighieri's jewelry is inspired by the Divine Comedy - these earrings reference the 'Inferno' prologue when Dante is confronted by a lion. They've been wax-cast and embossed in London with coins that dangle from the medallion post. Designed to be worn "as a reminder to be bold and courageous, " they look especially powerful with the matching necklace.

Alighieri

Alighieri - La Passione Di Napoli Gold-plated Earrings - one size

Alighieri | Alighieri - La Passione Di Napoli Gold-plated Earrings - one size | Clouty

EXCLUSIVE AT NET-A-PORTER.COM. Dante's epic poem Divine Comedy serves as the starting point for Alighieri's latest collection, 'The Land of the Lawless'. Capturing the magic of Naples, these earrings are handmade from gold-plated bronze using a lost-wax casting process. Showcase the mismatched designs with swept-back hair.

Alighieri

Alighieri - Surreal Gold-plated Earrings - one size

Alighieri | Alighieri - Surreal Gold-plated Earrings - one size | Clouty

EXCLUSIVE AT NET-A-PORTER.COM. Alighieri founder Rosh Mahtani read Italian literature at Oxford University and states Dante Alighieri's Divine Comedy as inspiration for her collections - each piece refers to one of the poet's 100 poems. Made exclusively for us in London, these 'Surreal' earrings are cast from gold-plated bronze using a lost-wax casting technique. They're light enough to be worn every day.